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黄慧吉.——序——. 不知道，你是不是也像现在的我一样，每一次远行归来，总会有那么几天想要再一次离开现实，想要穿越时空回到那条刚刚走过的路上。今天，忙里偷闲，在这个安静的午后，给自己一个足够的空间，在画面的变换中，怀念已经属于“昨天”的记忆。是的，仿佛所有的东西都还未曾“远离”，让我还能在这里，在文字中，再一次用“心”去行走，去感受那段梦境般、熟悉而亲切的“元旦小鳌太穿越”—— 我在路上，原来，一切，都还在…… ——记 在这里，真心的感谢8264这个网络平台，让我能够在此相识了那些热爱生活的朋友，并能与大家共同分享户外生活的快乐！也要感谢“天石”公司在元旦期间寄来的我在“我行我在 天石户外”游记攻略大赛上文章获得的奖品。在此，希望能有更多的朋友参与并支持8264户外资料网！祝愿8264网站越办越精彩！活动越来越丰富！ 我，早已经不再质疑自己的选择，因为，每当我一次次回头，看看那些曾经走过的路，遇见的风景，还有风景里的人，我都会心存万分的感激之情：感谢大自然赋予人类的神奇，感谢志同道合的朋友们的相惜，让我能在心中留下记忆，并且，让一切仍旧，仍旧一如“昨天”那么的美好。人生，谁人不过客？驻足一笑，擦肩而过——相信，如若有缘，我们终会——相见；人生，走在一起是缘分，一起再走是信赖——真诚的期待，期待能在路上，再一次与你——相遇…… ——记 我不知道别人怎样理解“生活”，怎样让“生命”更有意义，可我知道，我这样的“梦想”与“生活”真的不需要所有人都理解。我想，生活中每个人都有着属于自己的梦想，只是，最大的区别莫过于你是否不停地努力着，努力着去把梦想逐渐变成现实。相信，无论梦有多高，无论梦有多远，梦在，就好！也许，美好的人生莫过如此吧——做自己喜欢的事，让梦想在生活中得以实践…… ——记. 我总是喜欢在陌生的地方或是短暂的停驻，或是匆忙的一瞥，我知道，但凡那些曾经留下我的身影或是映入我眼帘的地方，都会让我在未来的某一天，再一次真诚的向时光讨一份美好的记忆……——记 我一直喜欢“路上”的那个我。因为每一段路，每一次旅行，那些途中的收获与感悟，无论是“得”还是“失”，都会让我深深地感受到，那个时候的我，内心是幸福而快乐的……——记 年年岁岁，岁岁年年，让我们别“怠慢”了本该拥有的景致，.虽然“花”相似，“山”常在，但每一年的心境却已然绝非相同……画面中，自西向东望去，依次是飞机梁、西源、金字塔、大太白梁、拔仙台等历历在目 喜欢，是动力；兴趣，是方向——不需要任何理由。我想，我是真的中了驴行的“毒”。 我喜欢这种生活，那些途中令人驻足止步，耳目一新的享受，以及获得快乐的那一瞬间，那每一秒，不是任何人，任何钱物所能给予的，相信，只有自己！——记 曾经，我不止一次地问自己，准备好了吗？因为我相信，当身心都做好了准备，鳌太就是最美的天堂……2013年元旦，小鳌太穿越的路上因为有了你们的相伴，我才有幸用双脚去丈量，日历一页一页的翻过，时光再也回不到从前，可我不会忘记，忘记那四天三夜共处的每一个快乐的瞬间——无兄弟不登山，在此，再一次感谢，感谢一路有你！感谢记忆里有你！——记 记得去年五月的鳌太穿越，于导航架前，来自不同起点的两支队伍在途中不早不晚的相遇，并且有缘面对面的站在同一个高度上相互问候，我想，一定是因为“山”在这里！雨中，彼此看不清对方的脸，自此分别后，脑海里却留下了身在异乡听到的那一句最温暖的祝福——以山会友，我不知道这样的“偶然”算不算是人生的一种修行……——赠与此行队长“长风”：相识，真好！ “长风”，一个细心严谨的领队，是当地户外网站的元老级人物一路上香烟不断的“长风”，据说一手好书法2012年的元旦假期，他就曾经一个人独自走鳌山 . 在这里，格外道上一声真挚的感谢，感谢队长帮我购买了高山气罐和各种食材，让我品尝到陕西的特色：麻食，手工面，胡辣汤、油茶（袋装滴），小油条、小咸菜，臊子红萝卜丝炒豆腐（因为路途较远，在家出发时，我只是准备了几天穿越途中的路餐，营地餐基本都是“长风”队长在宝鸡当地帮忙准备的）……——记摄影不错的“长风”这次带着佳能5D2， 外加三角架，帖子里那张星空轨迹的相片就是出自他的手，一路上使用70-300f/4-5.6L IS 和 L 16-35f2.8L两个镜头，也不嫌麻烦相片中的“长风”很多都是在转身回头，后来我忍不住好奇的问他，他只说了句，担心……应该是因为等我的缘故吧，我的镜头里数他的身影最多（本人摄影一般，别嫌相片拍的不尽人意） 无兄弟不登山，但兄弟终归是“过客”。无论是近在咫尺，还是远在天涯，那些所有的至纯至简的欢声笑语，终究要从荒烟蔓草的山间，从风生水起的路上，回归到喧闹的城市，然后，然后在冰冷的钢筋水泥间继续做那个脚踏实地的，诚诚恳恳的“自我”——这就是“生活”，愿我们永远怀揣一份美好的信念，执着而坦然，简单而快乐。——赠与“雷锋”：学习雷锋精神！高大、帅气的“雷锋”，走过四姑娘山三峰，登过玛雅雪山，去年完成了玉珠峰一路上，幽默诙谐的“雷锋”不断地带给我们很多快乐. 虽然相处的时间短暂，却能感觉到这是一个很会生活的男人黄瓜和大白菜都成速冻的了，看来冬季登山真的不适宜带着它们绝对的吃货！！！路餐居然带着鸡腿！羡慕嫉妒恨…… 这个男人绝对是个有故事的人，有机会一定要多“挖掘”…… 每个人来到这里，都曾经累得要命，苦得要命，但这种滋味会随着时光流逝渐渐的演变成下一次的“渴望”与“向往”。我想，那所有的千辛万苦，和那一路结伴的驴友，以及共同走过的路，都终会在日后变成生命中那个难忘的良辰美景——元旦假期的四天三夜，就如同行走在天上人间，相信能留在回忆里的必将是那些难得的景致和景色里美好的心情——不管你是谁，都将会终身难忘！——赠与“耕耘”：你的稳重与低调让我印象深刻一路上，喜欢静静的拍摄MV……“耕耘”的少言寡语，不知道是不是跟吐字如金的职业有关？..下山时，“雷锋”说“耕耘”曾在夜晚对着MV演讲自己的感受……我深信他是个有内涵的男人. 记得“雷锋”这样跟我说，我和耕耘多年交情，鳌山基本上都是我们一起走的。很多时候他做的事情让我吃惊，是个有想法的人，也是个很浪漫的人，去年正月十五上鳌山，我就是包一背就走了，“耕耘”不声不响的带上礼花，说咱们也过个元宵节…… 听说“耕耘”国画很好，还善于素描，心中很是期待能拥有一张…… 这样每天在山里绕来转去，怀着同一个的梦想，走着重复的山路，发着同样的呆……就算一言不发，感觉也很好！ 他曾和雷锋一起登过玛雅雪山 你是一个什么样的人，竟然这样一路有条不紊，让一切“沉默”成“金”…… 有些事情，在还没能够来得及做的时候却没有争取去做，我想，如若现在还不作为，也许就永远都做不成了。因为所有的东西都在随着时间的漫延而改变，包括适宜的天时、地利、人和，包括自己一年年体能的改变，思维反应的变化，甚至，更多的东西都在随着时间慢慢的，悄悄的离我们远去，从此，不再适合我们，不再属于我们。活在当下，让我们共同努力过好每一天，不要再让自己放不下、想不开、看不透……——记. ..——出发——.... 很多人为了能在有限的生命中留下更精彩的痕迹，一直都在生活中寻找，并不断地改变初衷，时至今日，甚至还依旧让“遗憾”与“叹息”徘徊在蹉跎岁月间。渐渐的，在一次次的无奈中，眼前的世界变得更大，更深，更远，更陌生……是的，生活中，为了梦想，甚至为了一个别人眼中“不现实”的梦想，甘愿暂时放下一切，并不是谁都能做得到的。我只想告诉你，我亦并非是什么胸怀大志的女子，我只是喜欢以“山为伴，水为侣——洗耳，清目”，让自己能从不同的角度看“人生”，让世界在心中更美！今天，当你还在犹豫的时候，我，已经在路上……——记.2012年12月29日.出发的那个清晨，天空中飘洒着的雪花儿和亲朋一起 为我饯行经中转站换乘，折腾了近四十个小时，终于在2012年12月30日晚十一时半入住在宝鸡 .——第一天——第一天路程队长制定的很轻松：.23公里进山——练驴坡——牛头树——2900松树林——3100梁头营地扎营.. 鳌太，我对它的“认可”缘于去年五月的那一次未完成的穿越。在满脸泪水与雨水交织的下撤途中，那雨雾中朦胧的景色风一样“穿过”记忆，留下它那淡淡的痕迹。从此，我便知道，无论是走近它，还是遥望它，它，终会在那里——等我……那天，当我再一次身在其中，那曾经所有的牵挂与想念，象极了“落叶归根”般的感觉——从此，从此有了“着落”…….——记.. 2012年12月31日中午到达太白县23公里，映入眼帘的是那些熟悉的志性建筑 与事先约好的宝鸡驴友一起在鳌山登山口处整装待发……眼前上升的这段路就是“练驴坡”，我们从起步开始计时，二十分钟到达坡顶点处第一天，天空中一直是艳阳高照，万里无云…… 记得曾经有朋友对我说，你的图片配上文字总会让我看了很激动，象你这样的路，这样的行走，估计我这辈子是没有机会去尝试了……其实，我想对她说，路——永远在脚下，看你走与不走，若真的要走，相信总会有一条适合你的路，适合你的走法…… ——记在这个被称为鳌山“牛头树”的地方休息调整、适当补给后继续前行([]
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李俊伟Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.为了让杨同学的传奇能让全世界的驴友分享，俺决定把杨同学的帖子翻译成英文。为了避免麻烦，俺先来个免责声明：1。杨同学不认识俺，也没有授权俺，如果他说不要翻译了那俺就随时终止；2。俺没有商业目的，译版版权归杨同学，俺啥也不要，也不承担法律责任；3。没有杨同学授权，不敢擅自发在国外网站，发在原帖处，荣誉归8264；4。俺英语水平有限，欢迎指正，欢迎转贴。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感谢大伙儿支持和加分，不一一回复了。特别感谢多啦，希望能有机会一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差点儿没找到俺自己的帖子，原来变色了。多谢各位鼓励。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birt
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曾尧心徒步西藏“四大名沟”，看五座8000米雪山，看你还能不能Hold住？ 在世界屋脊西藏，耸立着雄伟的喜马拉雅，其中有五座8000米以上的雪山座落在日喀则境内，它们是珠穆朗玛（第一）、洛子峰（第四）、马卡鲁（第五）、卓奥友（第六）和希夏邦玛（第十四）。 喜马拉雅雪山脉在日喀则境内被砍了四个缺口，它们形成了日喀则“四大名沟”：吉隆沟、樟木沟、嘎玛沟和亚东沟。这四条沟的共同特点是：发源于雪山，海拔从5000米一路下降到3000米，经低处流到国外。独特的地貌造就了奇特的风光：雪山相伴，景色多变，人迹罕至，恍若世外桃源。 今年国庆假期，我们一行16人，深入“四大名沟”徒步，与五座8000米雪山亲密接触，欣赏旷世美景，体验别样人生。 感谢老天爷给我们好天气，感谢朝夕相伴同甘共苦的队友，感谢给我们帮助的司机、向导、牦牛工，让我们这次漫长的旅程变得如此顺利和圆满。 这里，要向大家特别推荐希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步和珠峰东坡大本营徒步，这是目前国内最好的徒步线路。遗憾的是沿途遇到的大多是外国人，国内驴友还较少知道。 这个帖子注定是一个长篇，请大家耐心等待。我们将用最详细的第一手资料：文字、图片、视频、GPS轨迹、攻略，揭开“四大名沟”的神秘面纱。 时间：2011年9月23日——10月16日 线路：深圳——拉萨——老定日——吉隆沟——聂拉木——希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步——聂拉木——珠峰大本营——曲当乡——晓乌错——卓湘营地（兰花谷）——汤湘营地——俄嘎——珠峰东坡大本营——俄嘎——措学仁玛——曲当乡——定结——岗巴——多庆措——亚东——江孜——拉萨——深圳。 参加人员：行摄匆匆、阿韦、相守、游民、蓝桥，有足道、小白、飞繁、老虎，小麦子、小玉、大玉、夭夭、鑫子、小瓦片、小迷糊。相机：D700+24——70。费用：6000元左右（不包括来回拉萨机票）活动约伴帖：无法抵挡的诱惑——2011年“十一”西藏“四大名沟”徒步约伴https//www.doyouhike.net/group/20158/1/510200,0,0,0.html活动讨论帖：2011年“十一”西藏“四大名沟”徒步计划书https//www.doyouhike.net/group/20158/1/532199,0,0,0.html星子作业：听，喜马拉雅的呼吸---2011西藏四大名沟徒步(希夏邦马&珠峰东坡）https//www.doyouhike.net/forum/photo/544588,0,0,1.html小麦子作业：小面条走天涯—西夏邦马、珠峰东坡徒步记https//www.doyouhike.net/forum/backpacking/544977,0,0,0.html小瓦片作业：We Made It——行摄匆匆队2011金秋西藏“四大名沟”游记By瓦片https//www.doyouhike.net/forum/mountain/544087,0,0,1.html#post21回复 深圳行摄匆匆 的帖子揭开“四大名沟”的神秘面纱一、为什么要去“四大名沟”？ 因为山在那里， 因为那里有绝美的风景， 因为那里人迹罕至。 “四大名沟”只是一个概念，这里只是借用一下，具体怎么走，一切由风景决定。 吉隆沟的风景集中在吉隆镇一带，有时间的话建议徒步去看看山上的几个村庄，有走进世外桃源的感觉。当然姆拉错是一定要去的，那里是等待日出和拍雪山倒影的最佳位置。 樟木沟的重点是上段的希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步，其实我们压根儿就没去樟木。希夏邦玛南坡大本营是一条风景优美、难度适中的徒步线路，来回3天，与雪山近距离接触，能带给你意外的惊喜。 嘎玛沟被认为是世界上最美的山谷，因为它的上段有三座8000米以上的雪山：珠穆朗玛、洛子峰和马卡鲁。这里有多条徒步线路可供选择，最值得一走的是珠峰东坡大本营徒步，来回7天，风景绝美，有一定挑战性。 亚东沟的重点是多庆措和卓木拉日，湖光山色，交相辉映。当然，去下有西藏小香港之称的亚东县城也是不错的。那里有中印乃堆山边贸通道，还有康布温泉。二、为什么要一次走完“四大名沟”？ 这个是由效率决定的。去一次西藏不容易，而这“四大名沟”都在日喀则境内，相距不远，一次走完性价比高。 还有一个重要的原因，那就是循序渐进。很多人去珠峰东坡徒步，第一天就高反了，导致很难按计划完成全程。但我们的队员到珠峰东坡的时候个个活蹦乱跳，这是为什么呢？因为我们先去吉隆沟（2850米），再去希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步（3750米——5130米），到达曲当乡的时候已经不知道高原反应为何物了。 走完珠峰东坡可以原路经日喀则返回拉萨，但那样的话将会非常无趣。我们选择定结——岗巴——亚东——江孜——拉萨，一来可以看见不同的风景，二来可以作为高强度徒步活动之后的放松。三、线路的难度和或有风险 希夏邦玛南坡大本营徒步来回3天时间，最困难的是第二天，海拔高、时间长，要有心理准备。最好早点出发，来回预计9小时。 珠峰东坡大本营徒步来回7天时间，每天徒步5—8小时，比较危险的是巴当到俄嘎的一段碎石坡横切；强度最大的一天是俄嘎到珠峰东坡大本营，来回9小时，徒步24公里；而最不确定的是朗玛拉垭口穿越，如果大雪封山，穿越将异常困难。 沿途还是有很多岔路的，建议请当地向导或牦牛工带路，如果是自己徒步，至少有GPS数据参考。四、对身体条件的要求 很多人想去高原徒步但担心自己的身体，当然最担心的还是高原反应。其实，没有大家想象的那么难，只要你平时坚持运动，出发前进行适当的拉练，一般人都是可以完成的。我们这次有16人参加，大部分人都不是猛驴，甚至有些是临时抱佛脚，像南京的小迷糊。我们队员的年龄在30——50岁，但我们照样顺利走完全程，主要经验是循序渐进，把状态调整到最好。一般拉练到轻松爬完梧桐山，腿脚不痛就可以了。五、带什么装备? 高原天气多变，早晚寒冷，中午炎热，衣服要多带，冷了加，热了脱。最低温度—10度左右，要求带快干衣、抓绒、冲锋衣、羽绒服、羊毛袜、毛线帽、厚手套、雪套、雨衣，—10度睡袋等。此外还要注意防晒，如果不注意，一天就可以把你晒伤！一般出发的时候穿抓绒和冲锋衣，走一会就要脱掉一件，中午可能只穿一件快干就可以了。但最怕的就是风寒效应，一旦变天，刮风下雪，气温陡降，很容易造成失温的。六、山上吃什么？ 总是原则是：有能量、合口味、易煮熟、少垃圾。一是营养搭配；二是数量控制；三是小组互补。主要食品有快餐面、快餐粉、挂面，燕麦片、奶茶、豆腐花、紫菜蛋花汤、浓汤宝，各种咸菜，饼干、面包，火腿肠、午餐肉、鸡腿鸡翅，奶糖、巧克力，各种水果，特别推荐红萝卜、白萝卜、大白菜，好放，不容易撞坏。其它个人喜爱食品。建议4—6人一个小组一起做饭比较有趣。七、边防通行证如何办理？ 四大名沟都属于边境地区，都要办理边防通行证，最严的可能是曲当乡。但这次好像查得不严，我们去曲当乡卡达边防派出所登记的时候值班的人还在睡觉，叫了几次都不起床，最后还是一个四川帅哥帮忙登记的。去“四大名沟”要写上吉隆县、樟木、珠峰、亚东，最好写上曲当乡或卡达，避免不必要的麻烦。一般可以在当地公安局或派出所办理，如果当地不能办理，也可以找拉萨的旅行社代办，一张100元。八、费用如何控制？ 去西藏旅游，最主要的费用就是车费。现在很多人迷信越野车，不管是到哪里都要包越野车，其实大可不必。因为现在西藏很多旅游景点的道路都修得很好了，一般的小车、面包车都可以到达，比如我们这次要到达的吉隆沟和曲当乡，算是非常偏僻的地方了，但我们的两辆10座金杯面包车都可以安全到达。省下的车费就可以拿来大吃大喝了。九、向导和牦牛如何联系？ 如果你不是特别的喜欢自虐又有特别强的野外生存能力，建议你还是雇向导和牦牛好了，这样自己就有足够的精力来欣赏沿途风景、享受徒步的快乐，而不是一味的暴走。 希夏邦玛大本营徒步的起点在聂拉木县城，而珠峰东坡徒步的起点在定日县曲当乡，到当地就可以联系到向导和牦牛了，一般是由村长或乡政府统一调配的。十、推荐几个常用电话1、拉萨包车：平措，老司机，技术一流，善于跟当地藏民打交道，可以算得上西藏通了，11座金杯车，车号：藏AL1052,联系电话：13989099861；米玛，平措师傅的搭档，有文化，非常幽默，特别喜欢开玩笑，11座金杯面包车，电话：13518982207.住宿：风马飞扬：0891——6790250，13908915478，QQ：55387134，老板：阿芳、阿辉。亚宾馆附近，离大昭寺和布达拉宫都不远。最好的地方是晚上12点关门熄灯，可以安心睡觉。气罐：我们的气罐是在荒野户外店买的，25元一瓶，没用完的可以退给他们。地址在亚宾馆和大昭寺之间，电话：0891——6792423，13908908910。腐败：太阳岛重庆正宗邮亭鲫鱼，喜欢吃辣椒的可以去尝尝，电话：0891——6714285；太阳岛彭彭牛杂羊杂火锅，18989986050。这个不辣，不介意吃动物内脏的可以去试试。2、吉隆恒安宾馆，算是吉隆镇最大的宾馆之一，间80元，可以洗澡。老板：蒋佩伸，儒雅商人，喜欢摄影，已经知道在哪里拍倒影了。电话：0892——8928323，18908926368.3、聂拉木神山宾馆，40元一个床位，附近有淋浴的地方，10元1人。老板是回民，特别爱干净，热情到你受不了，可以帮忙联系村长，商谈去希夏邦玛牦牛的事情。联系电话：郑建文：0892——8272488，13989028182。村长（什么村不记得了）：西热：13989922862。我们这次的牦牛就是他负责安排的。注意把要去的地方和牦牛的价钱先谈好。之前我们联系的是多布吉，我们是在网上看到他电话的，他是当地的高山协作，但找牦牛还是要通过村长。多布吉电话：13638920177。4、曲当乡牦牛都是由乡政府统一安排，分管副书记小普：13518929783。边防证由定日县卡达边防派出所管理。我们去的时候值班的人不在，是一个四川兵哥哥帮忙登记的，他叫王川，最好不要随便去打扰他哦。曲当乡住在珠峰宾馆，40元一个床位，老板叫达瓦：13549026865，18798922896。对面有一家成都餐馆，味道不错。牦牛由乡政府统一安排，但向导要自己找。绝大部分牦牛工不懂汉语，沟通起来非常困难。这里推荐三个向导：罗布桑布，13658924597，非常靠谱的向导，带路节凑控制得很好，线路非常熟悉，为人诚实可靠，缺点是只懂几句简单汉语。边巴，18708024910，初中文化，交流无障碍，但有点滑头，比较懒散。需要经常敲打，做翻译很好。扎西，18708092653，现在西藏大学读书，平时不能带队，但交际能力强，他哥哥是个不错的牦牛工，可以帮忙联系曲当乡的向导、牦牛工和进出卡车等。这三个向导应该都是朋友或亲戚关系。找到其中一位就可以找到其它两位，重点推荐罗布桑布，被我们队员广泛认可。如果不想包车去曲当乡，可以先坐车到定日县，再坐卡车到曲当乡，每人200元，可让当地向导帮忙联系。据说这样可以逃掉去珠峰的门票。行前准备，可参考我们的讨论帖：2011年“十一”西藏“四大名沟”徒步计划书https//www.doyouhike.net/group/20158/1/532199,0,0,1.html#post17 我们的五星级营地：珠峰东坡晓乌错营地希夏邦玛南坡营地亚东多庆措营地 嘎玛沟汤湘观景台，同时看见三座8000米雪山：马卡鲁、洛子峰、珠峰。珠峰北坡大本营。希夏邦玛南坡营地：我们最喜欢的倒影：吉隆沟晓乌错多庆措全家福：我们走在喜马拉雅：云端漫步：美丽的晓乌错，第一次看见远处的马卡鲁。嘎玛沟，被认为只世界上最美的山谷，因为有三座8000米雪山在它的上段，它们就是珠穆朗玛（第一）、洛子峰（第四）和马卡鲁（第五）。马叉无处不在 躺在帐篷中就可以看见雪山：通往珠峰东坡大本营的路：多庆措和卓木拉日： 一、吉隆沟，在郁闷中开始，在完美中收官 如今的西藏，大概已经没有了空白。包括神秘的墨脱、古格以及藏北无人区，都已经变得不再那么神秘。唯独吉隆，似乎还鲜为人知。 吉隆，或许就是西藏最后的秘境。 吉隆，藏语“舒适村”、“欢乐村”之意。吉隆之得名，传说是公元8世纪后期，赤松德赞从印度迎请莲花生大师入藏时，大师一行途经吉隆沟（今吉隆镇一带），曾在此住了一宿。大师见此地山清水秀，风景明媚，不胜感概，又见溪谷中的河水洁白如乳，溪底的卵石光润如玉，更是赞叹不已。于是，在翌日临行之前，欣然命名此地为“吉隆”，以表达其无限赞誉之情，“吉隆”之称谓遂流传至今。 吉隆位于珠峰自然保护区的最西端，由于横贯东西的喜马拉雅山脉阻挡了印度洋暖湿气流的北进，使得山脊两侧的气候截然不同，呈现出南北两大气候类型。东北部有8012米的希夏邦玛峰和著名的佩枯湖，南部则分布有原始森林。吉隆藏布江顺着蜿蜒的山谷向南飞泻，两侧山峰林立，气势巍峨，层峦叠翠的山谷里生长着种类繁多的森林植物，一些稀有树种如长叶松、长叶云杉、红豆杉等也随处可见，山顶则是终年积雪，气度不凡，所谓“一山有四季，十里不同天”便是这儿真实的写照。 去吉隆沟的过程并不顺利，可谓一波三折，柳暗花明。前三天的天气都不好，从拉萨到吉隆沟，我们要翻过三个海拔5000多米的垭口，好几名队员都出现了不同程度的高原反应。而我们期待的风景却迟迟没有出现，三座8000米的雪山都藏而不见。吉隆沟徒步的那一天更是阴雨朦胧，连雪山的影子都没见着，我甚至怀疑之前的信息出了问。 这次去吉隆沟与一张雪山倒影的照片有关，红草地、大石头、两座雪山在静静的湖水中映出清晰的倒影，仿佛世外桃源一般。在吉隆镇的大街上，我问过很多人，但没有一个人能告诉我在哪里可以看到雪山的倒影，真让我这个倒影控抓狂。 但我们并没有放弃，在雨中坚持徒步上山，因为宾馆的老板告诉我们山上有两个美丽的村庄，还可以看见一排的雪山。为了躲雨，我们冒失地闯进了山上的一户藏民家，没想到刚好是村长家。在那里，我们度过两个小时的欢乐时光。虽然语言不通，我们与藏民一家相处融洽，因为双方都充满着好奇，我们都感觉对方似乎是来自另一个世界。 下山的时候无意间发现了那个拍摄雪山倒影的地方，真是踏遍铁鞋无觅处，得来全不费功夫，别提我们有多高兴了。就在我们即将离开吉隆沟的那一天，雨过天晴，柳暗花明，美景如期而至。我们看到了最美的吉隆沟，四周的雪山依次打开，我们等来了日照金山，我们如愿以偿地拍到雪山的倒影。在回程的路上，我们还看见了雄伟的希夏邦玛和美丽的佩枯错。 吉隆沟，就这样在郁闷中开始，在完美中收官。 D1：9月23日，深圳——重庆——拉萨1、背着40公斤行李出门早上四点多一点就醒了，也不敢再睡，怕睡过头了。一边看电视一边等天亮。昨天晚上打包很辛苦，搞到23：30，这次要带的东西实在是太多了，最后的结果是：85升大包22公斤，摄影包（包括上网本）12公斤，一个装食品的手提袋6公斤，一共40公斤。还要帮大玉带一个摄影包到机场。615在楼下与游民会合，645到达机场，小麦子和星子已经先到了。本想着她们女孩子东西少，一起托运可以占点便宜，没想到她们的大包都是19公斤多，据说她们没有在家称过，全凭感觉，真厉害！我只好赶紧为大包减负，拿出三脚架和几块电池，和游民一起托运，两个人40.02公斤，每个人都是20公斤左右，已经精确到小数点后两位数了，都是给航空公司逼的。为了检验这次徒步的减肥效果，特地把自己也称了下，78公斤，希望回来之后能在73公斤之下，哈哈，旅行和减肥，一举两得。2、一大堆电池蒙混过关过安检的时候很担心电池的问。因为前段深圳大运期间，机场查得很严，好像每个人只能带两块电池登机，而且电池是不能托运的。我这次带的电池实在太多：D700相机5块，摄像机2块，对讲机2块，还有为GPS准备的移动电源（相当于一块大的锂电池）。我把这些电池分放在我的摄影包、手提袋和摄影背心口袋中，以防万一。还好，这次安检对电池查得不严，让我把20公斤的装备轻松背上了飞机。8点登机，830起飞，1030就到重庆了。实在是有点困，一上飞机就睡着了。我们这次算是联程机票，虽然要在重庆换机，但都是南航的，只需在深圳办理一次行李托运就OK了，在重庆也不用出候机楼，1230又开始登机，1500就到拉萨贡嘎机场了。3、又见雪山飞机快到拉萨的时候，机舱内的人群就开始沸腾，我知道，可以看见雪山了。虽然是第五次来西藏，但看到雪山，依然有些兴奋，也拿出相机拍了几张。4、风马飞扬客栈集结机场大巴25元坐到终点（布达拉宫附近），再打的15元到亚宾馆，我们住的风马飞扬客栈就在附近，但的士开不进去，而我们三人的东西都很多，就打电话给先到的有足道，让他叫几个队员来帮忙拿一下。最后只有有足道和客栈的一个小伙子来了。后来才知道，有好几个人都有轻微的高反，在客栈睡觉，有足道也打了三天的吊针，真不好意思，给有足道添麻烦了。到了客栈，先了解下队员的状况，到各个房间串门，接下来就是联系我们的包车司机平措师傅和我们珠峰东坡徒步的向导扎西，约好晚上七点一起吃饭，讨论这次旅行的细节问。可以说，他们都是我们这次旅行的关键人物。平措和米玛，各开一辆全顺面包车，要跟我们16人21天，我们徒步的时候，他们也在原地等待，这样就没有后顾之忧了。国庆节期间的包车还是很紧张的。而扎西则是我们这次活动的重头戏珠峰东坡徒步的向导，直接关系到这次徒步的成功与否。我们边吃边聊，气氛不错，他们都是很好相处之人，先前的一些担忧大多得到解决。最担心的是一辆全顺面包车能否坐下8个人，因为我们的行李实在是太多了。看到车子之后，这个顾虑基本没了，因为两辆车都在车顶安装了行李架，而车子里面还多出两个空位。5、山上吃什么是个大问 吃完饭去逛超市，主要想补充点吃的，一看价吓我一跳，手撕牦牛肉118元一斤，真***贵！好在水果还算便宜，6个小苹果5—12元不等，那就多吃水果少吃肉吧。回到客栈，开始重新打包，把暂时不用的放进大包，把可能用到的东西放在外面方便提取的地方。看到老虎在收拾行李，床上堆满吃的东西，看上去有点恐怖。为洗不洗澡纠结了很久，最后还是决定不洗。一是刚到高原，不能太折腾；二是今天搬运行李消耗不少体力了；三是洗澡容易着凉引发感冒。大约23点，疲惫的队员们逐渐入睡，而我则是最后一个入睡的人。费用明细：早上打的去机场60元；拉萨机场大巴25元；打的去客栈5元（三人15元）；晚餐33元；超市购物200元；住宿50元（7人间）合计373元。D2：9月24日，拉萨——日喀则——拉孜——老定日6、拉萨出发早上四点不到就醒了，尿急、鼻塞。在空气稀薄的拉萨鼻子不通气是很难受的，赶紧下一楼的洗手间去清理鼻子，因为住的七人间，在房间弄怕影响队友休息。回到房间，赶紧吃感冒药和鼻炎通窍片。躺在床上怎么也睡不着，干脆想一想还有什么东西遗漏的，因为明天离开拉萨后买东西就更不方便的。发现真的少了一些东西：唇膏和开瑞坦（治疗过敏性鼻炎的药），还有卷纸，这些都是我每天都要用到的。智者千虑必有一失，没想到我带了80多斤的装备，还是把它们漏掉了。熬到5点，我实在是无聊，就打开笔记本发微博，还在新浪博客上写了一篇博客。6点钟，大家陆续起床了，其实很多人跟我一样没有睡好，只是没有像我这样折腾而已。洗漱、装开水、打包。7点钟，车子已经开到亚宾馆了。我们搬运完行李就在附近的口味香川菜馆早餐，这里的早餐还不错，有稀饭、包子、豆浆、油条等，前一天晚上我已经跟老板打过招呼了。把这么多行李装上车既是力气活也是技术活，最后的结果让大家都很满意，8个人坐在车里面还比较宽敞。7：40离开亚宾馆，我们的西藏“四大名沟”徒步正式开始，出发前拍了一段视频，为队员们将来出境做准备，几名新队员明显有一些兴奋了。拉萨到日喀则限速60公里/小时。我们走走停停，反正今天不赶路，主要是适应高原，晚上能到达老定日就OK了。沿途有很多水果店，我们一路买一路吃。给每个司机一条云烟，一听红牛，这个是必需的。毕竟，要想玩得开心，司机是很重要的。13：30到达日喀则，从现在开始，点菜的任务就交给我们非常称职的生活部长蓝桥了。中午的川菜很丰盛，口味不重，大家都能接受。1415，我们离开日喀则。7、有人高反了1600到达海拔4500米的措拉垭口，1740到达海拔5150米的嘉措拉垭口，这里算是珠峰大门了吧，上面写着珠峰自然保护区欢迎你。天气不好，风很大，看不到远处的雪山，我们匆匆离开。下垭口不久，前面的车子突然停下来，担心车子出了故障，赶紧前去打探究竟，原来是阿韦高反吐了。吐了就好，不然憋着更难受。不一会，我们车上的大玉也吐了。阿韦和大玉都是多次参加高原徒步的老驴了，但依然会有高反，这很正常，这也是我们为什么第一站选择海拔2800米的吉隆沟的原因了，让队员有足够的时间来适应高原。1900到达白坝村，新定日县城就在右手边不远，但我们继续朝着樟木的方向直走。1920经过这次旅行的第一个检查站——定日县鲁鲁边防检查站。有点担心几名队员的边防证过不了关，还好一切顺利。8、老定日凑合一夜2010，我们终于到达今天的目的地——老定日（岗嘎镇），此时太阳刚刚下山。这里的海拔4340米。平措师傅带我们到他熟悉的拉萨饭店，藏民开的，条件很差，两人间开价80元，被我还到70元，再免掉司机住宿费。说是两人间，其实很小，就能放两张床，没有洗手间。因为天色已晚，又是司机带去的，就勉强接受吧，反正睡几个小时就走。司机想让我们吃拉萨饭店的藏餐，这个我们没有答应，毕竟我们都不是藏民，大部分人还是吃不习惯的，吃不好，后面的徒步就没有体力。跟司机的关系要掌握一个平衡点，小的事情可以迁就一下他们，但大的原则性问就要坚持己见了。我们找到附近一家川菜馆吃饭，在西藏，80%以上都是川菜馆，如果你不适应，那是比较麻烦的。点菜的时候，我特地叮嘱蓝桥，尽量清淡点，搞几个没有辣椒的菜，照顾一下几名不吃辣椒的队员。星子带了一个血氧浓度测量计，虽然不是很准确，但还是能大概测出每个人当时的心跳频率和血氧浓度的。从此，这个小仪器就成了我们每天吃饭时的娱乐项目了。队员们都拿这些指来炫耀自己的身体有多好，一般情况，心跳100以下，血氧浓度80以上，身体状况就是比较好的了。小白不知道从哪里听说在高原喝酥油茶可以抗高反，就花10元钱买了房东藏民家一壶酥油茶，见人就推销。我刚喝一口就发现不对，怎么有一个硬硬的东西在嘴里，吐出来一看，是一个白色的小块。小白忽悠我是没有融化的奶酪，后来发现是碗的碎片，真倒霉，哪有这么巧的，一口喝下去，就刚好喝到碗的缺口了！最大的遗憾是这里没有联通的3G信号，无法上网，枉我千里迢迢把笔记本带到这里，回去要投诉联通了，让俺买了个摆设。既然如此，那就收拾好行李，早点睡吧。今天的天气不怎么好，没有什么特别吸引人的风景，我的相机始终没有拿出来过。D3：9月25日，老定日（岗嘎镇）——希夏邦玛——吉隆县——吉隆镇9、微博控们在行动又是四点不到就醒了，感觉比昨天晚上稍好点，鼻子至少还是通气的。但头有点微痛，还咳嗽，这些都是轻微高反的症状，估计白天就会好的。赶紧把窗户打开，让外面的空气多一点流进来。上不上厕所纠结了一会，实在憋不到天亮，还是早一点解决的好。上面加了一件抓绒，下面加了一件秋裤，把毛线帽子也戴上了。好在厕所就在附近，没有想象的那么冷，看到满天的星星，开始期待今天的珠峰、卓奥友和希夏邦玛了。衣服都穿好了，又没有睡意，但是上不了网，找点什么事情做呢？灵机一动，既然带了电脑，何不用电脑写日记呢？这个想法让我又开始兴奋。好在今天一个人住，不会影响他人，说写就写，那就从今天开始吧，有时间再把前面的补上。7点早餐，天还没亮，西藏的时差比深圳要晚两小时，但队员们基本都到了。早餐是昨天就提前预定好的，每人10元，有稀饭、馒头、包子、咸菜和鸡蛋。昨天晚上，有很多人跟我一样没有睡好，有不同程度的高反症状。此时，那个血氧浓度测量计又成为最受欢迎的东西了。微博控们在抓紧一切时间发微博，游民则扮演狗仔队的角色：810离开老定日，期待传说中的三座8000米雪山同时出现，可惜云层太厚，一个也没有看见。但早上的光线还是偶尔透过云层把某个地方照亮。10、希夏邦玛留下买路钱9点，看到路边一个老外的营地，原来是一群来自荷兰的自行车爱好者，他们已经花了9天时间从拉萨骑到这里，还要继续骑往尼泊尔，真佩服他们。队伍中几个英语好的年轻人小瓦片、老虎、小白不忘前去卖弄一番，问一问你们从哪里来又要到哪里去的。950到达希夏邦玛售票处，这里是去阿里的必经之路，不管你是否旅游，都要每人购买65元的门票，有点过分。与其理论，卖票的说是当地政府规定，美其名曰草原保护费。如果要进入希夏邦玛大本营，还要每人交300元，每辆车300元。司机出面谈判，最后以9人买票成交，队员中三人有假的导游证，等于少买了4张，勉强可以接受吧。进入希夏邦玛风景区，开始看见一些雪山了，但都是它的卫峰，希夏邦玛始终躲在云层之中。很快看见美丽的佩枯错了，这时正好有一群羊从旁边经过，赶紧让师傅停车，开始我们的马叉时光。11、佩枯错上演公路大片喜欢马叉的队员们已经憋很久了，终于有了这个马叉的机会，怎能轻易的放过，赶紧拍起了她们擅长的公路大片。变换不同姿势和组合，折腾了半个小时还不想走，最后是我多次催促才依依不舍的离开。([]
星空传媒xk8013妻子的好闺蜜3程雨
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至此，一条与著名的狼塔c线呈V型排列的穿越中部天山南北的线路计划正式出炉，这条线路从狼塔c线的出口——和静县巴伦台古仁郭勒村出发，先向东后转向北，最后从与呼图壁县相邻的昌吉市庙尔沟出山。具体穿越线路（暂时命名：[中天山]四河源头穿越或狼塔V线？.......）：玛纳斯河源头支流和静县巴伦台古伦沟古仁郭勒村（狼c出口处）——奎克达坂3780m——夏热达坂——呼图壁河源头三角洲——绿湖3500m——乌拉布图达坂4010m——三屯河源头三角洲——天格尔达坂3780m——头屯河源头三角洲——头屯河大峡谷——桥楞格尔达坂——昌吉市庙尔沟镇农大林场全程120公里 ，五座达坂，爬升4200米， 难度等级 8 级（十级制） ，与狼塔c线相当，计划6天完成这是穿越路线简图： 一、旱獭到底招惹谁了？从8月14日开始，我打听接应从狼c穿越出来的驴友车，刚好有一支香港、深圳的9人队伍近期出山，联系到了他们预定的车辆师傅，师傅一听很高兴，他还正发愁自己去找不到古仁郭勒呢，我们刚好给他作个向导。万事具备，只等出发了。15日传来消息，是这支队伍用卫星电话打回来的，说是马上出山了，要司机等电话去出口接应他们。8月16日、17日在我们连续等了3天后，传出消息，说是这支队伍里有人受伤，已经搭乘矿区的车把伤员送到了和静县医院救治。其他队员回乌鲁木齐的时间待定。一边为这位受伤的驴友担心，一边查看了近期的天气预报，未来一周是难得的连续晴天。我们不能再等了。马上通知背包者去买到和静的火车票，一边通知清风统一购置了气罐并托运到和静县。18日晚8点，火车卧铺前往和静县。火车上的安全检查太苛刻了，大点的水果刀都不让带。可我们进山做饭要用刀呀，无人区生活一周怎么能没有刀？真TMD变态！背包者的水果刀被检查出来了，500元的刀扔了有点可惜，只好打电话让家人取回。研究了一下进站的安全检查程序，我只好冒险试一试。我把水果刀放到不锈钢水杯里带入，结果检查时还要求我喝了一口杯子里的水，最后涉险过关，万幸。一路无语，19日凌晨6点半到达和静，天还没有亮，我们徒步到达和静县城大十字，找了一处街心小游园休息，坐等天亮，主要是等托运过来的气罐。苦苦等了6个小时，终于在中午12点半等到了快递过来的燃气罐后，马上包车前往巴伦台。在巴伦台，吃了我们进山前的最后一顿正餐---带加面的豪华拌面。听饭馆老板说，早上有9人从呼图壁方向翻山过来，在巴伦台包车返回乌鲁木齐。这应该是8月12日进狼c的一支江西驴友队伍，可惜没有谋面。这是218国道502公里处，从这里进入狼c的出口古仁郭勒这是金特和钢矿区公路指示牌这是狼塔V线穿越的真正起点--古仁郭勒桥，同时也是狼c穿越的终点 刚刚迈开步子要走，迎面遇到一辆农用车，招手挡了下来，想让他再送我们一程，最好是能够翻越奎克达坂。车能走的地方干嘛要人走？商量了半天，车辆只能往前送5公里左右，上奎克达坂的路已经被洪水冲坏了，这车上不去。100元把我们5人5包又往里送了5公里。路上一直注意看着前方的路，希望能遇到一支走出狼c的队伍来。这是一辆收农副产品的车辆，车上有刚刚从牧民手中收购的钉子蘑菇，每公斤80元。据说味道如何如何鲜美。行不远，远处一辆摩托车招手，司机停车过去攀谈。摩托车司机从后储物箱里掏出几只已经死去的旱獭。原来这车就是干这个的呀。我们下车拍照，看到这车的车斗子里都是已经死去旱獭，应该有四、五十只。平时我们都是远观旱獭，感觉胖乎乎的非常招人可爱，此时看到如此多的旱獭尸体，心里多少有点不是滋味。 车的后箱里至少有50只旱獭尸体刚刚从摩托车上收购来的旱獭清风好奇，想掂一下旱獭的重量 农用车开到小砖房上一百米的地方就不能走了，不过这也节约我们一个小时的路程。告别师傅，向我们今天需要翻越的第一座达坂--奎克达坂爬去，现在海拔3280米，我们需要爬升约500米高程。远处左侧就是狼c的最后一个达坂---哈拉哈提达坂，右侧是我们此行的第一座达坂---古仁郭勒奎克达坂3780m 这是狼c的最后一个达坂---哈拉哈提达坂这是狼V的第一座达坂--奎克达坂海拔3780m 背包者和公格尔还是那么快，只一个多小时就顺利登顶奎克达坂。 因为是第一天行走，石头似乎状态不佳，被落在最后。我的状态不错，很快就追过了石头、清风第三个登顶。奎克达坂两侧是简易车道 奎克达坂海拔3780m，与狼c的最后一座达坂哈拉哈提达坂相距不到五百米，站在达坂顶遥望对面的哈拉哈提达坂，09年穿越狼c时的那一幕幕仿佛就在眼前。在今天的5名队员中有3人就是我们09年穿越狼c时的队友。奎克达坂也是玛纳斯河与呼图壁河之间的分水岭，过了奎克达坂就进入呼图壁河流域。奎克达坂顶的玛尼堆上挂满用羊耳朵穿起来经幡，抓紧时间和公格尔合影 从奎克达坂往东看去，是呼图壁河源头的一条重要支流。河流旁边有牧民的铁皮房子。 这段下达坂的路可以顺着简易公路走，坡度比较平缓。也可以沿着马道下到河谷。我看到山下有一处牧民房子，想过去打个招呼，顺便了解一下以后的路程。等我到房子跟前时，铁皮木屋是上锁的，房子的周围却挂满了这样的..........，对，没有错，这是被扒了皮的旱獭，这是在风干旱獭肉呢。转过头，看到的是更加血腥的一幕，旱獭的油已经被单独掏了出来晾晒，据说旱獭油是治疗烫伤和冻伤的良药。旁边还有座用毡子搭建的帐篷，里面的血腥场面更是惨不忍睹，这里就不发照片了。看着眼前的这一切，有种说不出道不明的愤怒。旱獭究竟惹谁了？该遭到这样残酷的杀戮！ 据说，一只旱獭能卖50元，一个人每天最多可以抓40只旱獭，已经形成相当规模的市场。“没有买卖，就没有杀戮”记不清这是谁说过的话了，看看这些专职的盗猎分子。我们一路下来遇到了有五、六人。 这是沿途看到盗猎分子捕捉旱獭的“扣”晚上8点，我们在呼图壁河源头的一条支流边扎营，营地海拔3100m'，感觉有点冷，需要穿抓绒衣外加冲锋衣。今天累计爬升500m，徒步距离12公里，那辆农用车带着我们走了5公里爬升了300米，为我们节约了1个多小时的时间。刚刚吃完饭，来了几位骑马的牧民和孩子，从他们哪里了解到，这条支流上游住着三户牧民，另外两户牧民就住在距离营地200米的山包后面，说来也巧，这时候，从那个山包后面又来了几位女孩子，牵着马过来吃草。在和她们聊天中，了解到我们要找的呼图壁河源头湖真名叫河头湖，哪里是冬季牧场，现在没有人。当他们听说我们要去河头湖时，极力劝阻我们，说我们无法到达哪里，一是因为现在水太大了，没有马匹是过不了河的。二是草原上的狼很多，另外还有熊猫（黑熊），很危险。对于他们所说信息到底有多少可信度？经验告诉我，这些信息只能作为参考。因为虽然他们很了解他们所在的大山，但他们不一定了解我们。对于这样信息我们必须要经过仔细分析才能取舍。况且，我们既然来了，就一定要自己去河头湖看看，直到走不了为止。 二、最大最美的高山牧场--夏热达坂高山牧场2009年10月当我穿越狼塔c线站在喀拉尕依特达坂顶上时，遥望着东南方向，哪里有着比西南方向的哈尔嘎特郭勒高山牧场更加广阔美丽的高山牧场，但由于资料匮乏，无法进一步了解这一地区的详细情况，也不知道哪里具体叫什么？这是当时回来后我所发表的狼c游记里的部分内容：“.....这是个三叉口大阪，往西南方向，是我们狼c前方的路线---哈尔嘎腾郭勒河谷；往东南方向也有非常明显的马道，远看也是个非常不错的高山牧场（但还没有哪里的名称和相关资料）；......”2010年底，打开谷歌地球（GE),发现这一片区已经全部置换了高清图片，牧屋、马道清晰可见，这里是呼图壁河和三屯河源头三角洲地区。从GE上看，这一区域沟谷开阔，河网密布，草原辽阔。当然，最耀眼的当属呼图壁河源头的高山冰湖，该冰湖湖面海拔3500m，湖水碧绿，周围被4000m以上的雪山环绕，犹如一颗绿宝石镶嵌在雪山草原之间，非常醒目，着实令人向往......闲话不多说了，继续我们的正。D2日，8月20日，早晨起来感觉非常冷，帐篷周围的草上边都是霜。气温应该在零下5度左右。原计划今天的行程32公里，主要是因为今天的这段路没有过多海拔上升，所以是想多赶点路，争取到达河头湖（当地蒙古牧民的叫法，绿湖是当地哈萨克牧民的叫法）扎营。我们沿着呼图壁河的一条支流而下，脚下的牧草越来越高、越来越好，这一切表明，我们已经进入蒙古牧民的冬牧场。由于是冬季牧场，其他季节禁止放牧，所以草原上的牧草才这么好。这中间过了两次河，由于河水较小，直接跳过来了。这是第三次过河点，过了这里道路将转为西—东方向。 横切进入夏热达坂高山牧场人在画中 来到夏热达坂高山牧场，连平时很少照相的背包者也开始摆起poes，照个没完。 夏热达坂是一座坡度很平缓的小达坂，达坂上的牧草有20cm高，有的牧草已经发黄，里面还夹杂着许多不知名的各色野花，由于地势较高、视野非常开阔。走这样的达坂真是一种享受 石头情迷美丽的高山牧场石头捡的玛瑙石 天苍苍野茫茫看着非常养眼的高山草原达坂，海拔上升也比较平缓，可走起来并没有照片中看到的惬意。总是感觉腿上使不上劲，连领头疯跑的背包者和公格尔也不例外。感觉他们俩走得比我还费劲。清风今天状态不错，一直走在前面，我试着追他，追了一个小时，最后是我们俩最先登顶夏热达坂。登顶夏热达坂顶 在达坂顶，我想拍远处的雪山，刚刚换好300mm的长头，石头也到了。她指着我们背后的草坡说，哪里有一群羊。这是冬季牧场，没有牧民那来的羊群？我回过头看，这哪里是普通的羊群，分明是一群北山羊，数量足有50多只了。以前走狼c和乌孙古道最多见过10多只的北山羊群，这次可大发了。这个长头多次带出来过，可几乎就没有用过，这次可派上用场了。赶紧拍了几张。公格尔还闲太远，想再靠近点拍，我把相机给他，可他向羊群移动了100多米后，羊群却向着更远的山坡也移动了100多米。白忙乎了。这是放到最大的照片了，凑合看吧 夏热达坂的另外一侧也是非常广阔漂亮的高山牧场 从夏热达坂下来，就是我们要过的第二条河，它也是呼图壁河的一条主要支流。来到河边，河水没有想象中大，很好过，河边有几户牧民房子和羊圈，但都上了锁。房子的周围是一人多高的草，走在里面有点渗人。刚好也到中午午餐时间了，照例午餐休息晒帐篷睡袋。有羊群就有狼群，这就是自然界的法则。刚才在达坂顶看到的北山羊群也提示我，从今天开始我们5人将进入无人区，一切都要靠自己。因为呼图壁河源头地区是蒙古族牧民的冬季牧场，其他季节是没有人类活动的。清风还在河里捡到一只北山羊头。拍照留影，弃之河边，还有点恋恋不舍。后来的才知道，这样北山羊头沿途还很多，到后来别说背了，就连拍张照片都懒得拍了。清风在河里发现一具完整的北山羊头 顺河而下，很快就来到两河交叉处，这是呼图壁河上游最主要的“鸡爪"岔，在不足300米的长度内，先后有三条主要的支流汇集。这是第二次两河汇集，左侧的是我们刚刚过来呼河第二条流，右侧是呼图壁河干流。逆行不到300米，又是两条支流汇集，这是第一次汇集，左侧是呼图壁河干流，右侧是呼河的第三条支流 最东边的支流水量最大，也是呼图壁河的干流。溯源干流，就可以到达呼图壁河源头---绿湖（河头湖）。河头湖是当地蒙古牧民的叫法，后来我们知道，当地的哈萨克牧民称呼其为绿湖，我们感觉这个名字更能体现河头湖的特征，所以我们更愿意称呼其为绿湖。呼图壁河干流这时的马道变得时有时无，并且不停在河谷中穿行。这就带来一个问，如果我们按照马道行走，就必须不断涉水过河。但同时，我们看到，右侧的山势比较平缓，即便是没有马道也可以行走。在前队的清风、石头和公格尔趟了两次河后，我和背包者偷懒，提前从右侧山上横切，结果，路还是比较好走的，很快超越了前队。清风、石头和公格尔三人前面趟水过河走了 接下来的路，马道越来越模糊，时而河谷时而山梁。路上的草越来越深，到后来，逐渐出现小片的沼泽或者布满小草包的湿地。这样的路走起来很费劲，一不留神还可能崴脚。山坡上的路需要不断爬这样的小山包 非常感谢楼上各位新老朋友光顾，支持、顶帖！你们的跟贴树已经仔细看过，不胜感谢，谢谢你们的支持！这里不再一一回复，我先抓紧时间发帖子。 河道时宽时窄，马道时高时低沼泽地 需要精心选择落脚地 牧草时高时矮，看看这里的牧草已经有半人多高 前方的绿湖方向已经变天而另外一方却还是蓝天白云([]
白熙雨蜜桃传媒吴梦梦
周怡梅理由：过个有意义的50岁 动身去尼泊尔EBC徒步是在出发前40天，儿子电话邀我去尼泊尔ABC徒步，还说不请背夫。上网搜了游记攻略，觉得有些难度。虽然到过玉龙雪山、爬过华山；儿子到过黄龙、爬过黄山。。。。。。为了50岁过的有意义，同意前行。办护照、找旅行社代办证、下班徒步或慢跑1小时，购置简单的装备，确定行程，订机票。出发前一星期儿子又改了，告知要去EBC徒步，说是行走在海拔4000米以上，每天与雪山为伴是多么美的事。行程：2012年10月4日成都飞加德满都D1（10月6日）：加德满都——Lukla(卢克拉，2840米)——Phakding(帕克丁，2610米)。到达后，站在夜幕下淋着小雨看星星。D2（10月7日）：Phakding(帕克丁，2610米)——Monjo(2840米)——Namche Bazar(南池巴扎，3440米)。D3（10月8日）：Namche(南池，3440米）------Tengpoche(邓波切，3860米)。D4（10月9日）：Tengboche(邓波切，3860米)----Dingboche(丁波切，4410米) ，到达后，下雪啦。D5（10月10日）：Dingboche(丁波切，4410)——Chhukhung(去贡，4730米) ——Chhukhung-Ri（5550米）——Chhukhung(去贡，4730米)。D6（10月11日）：Chhukhung（去贡，4730米）——Dingboche(丁波切，4410米) ——Lobuche(罗布切，4910米)。D7（10月12日）：Lobuche(罗布切，4910米) ——Gorak Shep(米格拉舍普，5140米)——Kala Patthar(卡拉帕塔，5545米)——Gorap Shep(米格拉舍普，5140米)。D8（10月13日）：Gorap Shep(格拉舍普，5140米)——EBC（珠峰大本营，5364米）——Gorak Shep(米格拉舍普，5140米) ——Lobuche(罗布切，4910米)。D9（10月14日）：Lobuche(罗布切，4910米)——Namche (南池，3440米)。到达后，洗澡。D10（10月15日）： Namche(南池，3440米)——Phakding(帕克丁，2610米) —— Lukla(卢克拉，2840米)。D11（10月16日）：Lukla(卢克拉，2840米)——加德满都。2012年10月18日加德满都飞成都。 费用：加德满都往返Lukla机票美金260/人机场税 Rs200/人进山许可证（TIMS） 0/人，付了Rs 1800 /人珠峰公园门票 3000 Rs /人各徒步点住宿Rs 200-500 /双人间各徒步点餐饮Rs 300-500 /份各徒步点开水Rs 300-700 /瓶各徒步点饮料Rs 50-130 /杯EBC徒步费用明细表单位：卢比日期10月6日10月7日10月8日10月9日10月10日10月11日10月12日10月13日10月14日10月15日10月16日合计水3606009009001150115013401100600600 8700早餐90500360740740480640840720340 5450中餐 720650760720900780 210 4740晚餐15607208007709201010700800600720 8600饮料180 160310180180 260300200 1770住宿300200300300500500500500200200 3500打的400 350750洗澡200600 600500 1900充电 200 220 420建设费400 400800进山证 3600 3600门票 6000 6000合计3490131403170378042104220418035003020277075046230备注：2个人的费用,10月6日和13日的中餐是浙江义乌驴友霸道请客的药品： 1、抗高原反映药：红景天、芬必得（去头痛）。（必不可少）2、感冒药：感冒冲剂、康泰克。（必不可少）3、肠胃药：整肠丸。（必不可少，多带点）4、消炎药：头孢。（适量）5、清火药：牛黄解毒片、咽炎片。（用得较多）6、跌打药：创可贴，活络油。（只带活络油就行了）7、急救药：速效救心丸。（没用上）8、其他：药棉、紗布、绷带。（很少用）装备：60L登山包及防雨罩、25L登山包及防雨罩、腰包、2个睡袋、登山杖、冲锋衣抓绒衣各一件、速干内衣2件、短袖T恤两件、冲锋裤一条、抓绒裤一条、保暖衣一套、速干裤一条、休闲裤一条、登山鞋拖鞋各一双、内衣裤、袜（4双）、护膝、手套、遮阳帽、绒线帽、头巾、墨镜、手电、头灯、瑞士军dao、、保温杯、水杯、雨披、塑料袋、晾衣绳洗簌用品：牙刷，牙膏，毛巾，浴液、洗发水、防晒霜，晒后修复霜、润唇膏、面霜、餐巾纸、湿巾纸、卫生纸等食品：巧克力、牛肉干、西洋参、奶糖、榨菜、紫菜汤包、饼干、火腿肠。准备好行装，第一次走出国门，开始我俩的EBC徒步之旅了10月4日：成都飞加德满都10月3日南昌飞成都与儿子毛毛的猫汇合，儿子跟导师请假说是陪老妈去徒步。10月4日国航成都至加德满都CA407，815起飞，我们坐在飞机右侧，1015抵达拉萨贡嘎机场，在贡嘎机场边检过海关。北京时间1120拉萨贡嘎机场起飞，北京时间1210左右透过飞机的眩窗，眺望到世界第一高峰—珠穆朗玛峰以及其他几座喜马拉雅山的冰雪巨人。飞机上看拉萨飞机上看喜马拉雅山加德满都当地时间1030抵达加德满都机场，顺利过关，提取行李，并在飞机场与偶遇的上海驴友一起打车到加德满都的凤凰宾馆住下。我们入住凤凰宾馆最贵的间Rs1500上海驴友已订好10月6日飞卢卡拉的机票，我们赶紧上街找旅行社订加德满都到卢克拉的机票。由于9.28空难和天气原因，小飞机已停运一星期，10月6日开始运营，一票难求。选了一家旅行社预定好10月6日加德满都往返卢卡拉机票2张，谈妥价格520美金，预付定金200美金。全是儿子与她们交谈，我是不懂英语的。办完正事已是下午2点，在外国人餐厅吃了馍馍和椰子饭。下午5点开始在尼泊尔的首都逛街走进水果店，点了2杯榨水果汁Rs80一杯，逛街逛到小菜市场买了个椰子，比海南的个小，付35Rs神庙到处可见的叶子晚上6点，夜幕降临，置身于铜的世界穿街走巷，又见寺庙晚上6点，走进卖传统帽子的小店，儿子与尼泊尔人交流，店主很热情的邀我俩跟她上楼，走在昏暗的楼道上，吓的我叫儿子不要跟上去。儿子不理会，我只好跟着走，原来是个更大的店面，她的老爸在那。儿子当了回店小二。儿子头戴尼泊尔传统帽子，身穿耀眼的黄衣服，手拿ipad走在大街上，时不时拍些风景、人物，引来许多尼泊尔人特别是年轻人围观，就跟当初我们看外国人一样，我怎么没拿照相机拍下来，笨幽静的小巷晚上6点30分，好像走到主街上，一下热闹了，街道右边人们虔诚的祈祷，左边舞台上唱着激情洋溢的歌晚上7点逛到杜巴广场，晚上是不收门票的这里正在开会，主席台前有人在演讲，右边站着好多持枪的士兵，还停着一辆大卡车，台下一半人都没有；左边一头大黄牛，过往的尼泊尔人都用手摸它，再摸额头加德满都的夜晚，人多、摩托车多做三轮车到宾馆花了20分钟，付200Rs，晚上8点半在凤凰宾馆吃的晚餐，铁板牛肉值得推荐10月5日：加德满都偶遇的上海3位驴友和我们一样，要下午4点去预订机票的旅行社看是否有机票。在凤凰宾馆吃过免费早餐，我们5人早上徒步半小时左右到了猴庙。这里有长眼睛的佛塔，有太多的猴子，还可以俯瞰加都全景。([]
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